Life on the Border

better late than never....

I should have written this blog in Thailand. Instead, I wrote super long emails (otherwise known as stories). So I decided to put them all in one place here. I've just moved these from Angelina's blog. They're posted in chronological order going down (opposite of typical blogs).

I still wish I was in Thailand, or somewhere tropical, but this will have to suffice for now.

A New Day for Burma?

I Have a Dream. A dream that when she grows up, Angelina will live in a world that doesn't need people willing to risk their lives for freedom. A world where peace and freedom are attainable for all.

Stand With the Burmese People



I've been closely watching the events in Burma* of late, recalling too much the events of 1988. I wasn't as close to the country then, and though my journeys into Burma were only a mile or so across the border, after living so close on the Thai-Burma border, I became enthralled by the people I met (see "The King's Birthday"). I took the opportunity to learn everything I could about the country and the current state of civil strife. Today, I am amazed by those willing to sacrifice everything for their freedom, and heartbroken that it is necessary. I hoped to see a different ending than in 1988. I still hope, but fear it turning out the same. Why have we in the West done so little? Why have we ignored Burma for so long? Why have we let this happen? For now, I will continue to dream that Angelina will one day travel the world encountering as wonderful people as I have, whom are not facing a struggle for peace and freedom.



*Why call it Burma instead of its current name of Myanmar? There's a good reason. Though in theory the new name is one of Union: The country is made up of many ethnic groups, of which the Burmans are only one, the name change was instituted by the military junta which came to power illegally. As such, those who have protested the military regime use the name Burma. Having spent some time with many such individuals, I'll continue to use the name as well.



Some of my good reading on Burma:
To keep updated: The Irrawaddy

Among Insurgents:Walking Through Burma by Shelby Tucker.
The Trouser People by Andrew Marshall.
Burma: The Curse of Independence, Shelby Tucker
Burma: Insurgency and the Politics of Ethnicity, Martin Smith
From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssy, Pascal K. Thwe
Letters from Burma,Aung San Suu Kyi


And more related to the Karen struggle:
Kawthoolei Dreams, Malaria Nights: Burma's Civil War, Martin MacDonald
Three Pagodas: A Journey Down the Thai-Burmese Border, Christian Goodden
The Long Patrol, Mike Tucker (less good, but still interesting)

And while I'm listing books, I'm anxious to read:
RESTLESS SOULS: REBELS, REFUGEES, MEDICS AND MISFITS ON THE THAI-BURMA BORDER, Phil Thornton, but it's not available in the US yet.

And a novel, for fun:
The Glass Palace, Amitav Ghosh

Kung's Bar I

What would life in Mae Sot have been without Kung? His bar was not just a drinking hole, it was a meeting place for ex-pats. Plenty of Karen and Thais popped in as well, and Kung always had his good friends about, but the ex-pats from all the NGOs congregated there.

Mattieu and Kung comparing blad spots.


The bar itself was a nice place, but what made it was Kung. Not only did he fix my gin and tonics (and often left the bar telling us to help ourselves), he became a good friend. I really miss his regular harassment.

Yes, I am the only woman in this picture, but there were often other women there. This night happened to be mostly men. And me.

That's Maw (Dr) Robert dancing with my mom.

Kung's Bar in between

Kung had to leave his former site, as the owner sold the property. So he opened up a new and improved bar. However, when I arrived back in June 2003, it was still under construction. Instead, Kung opened up his place to a special few.

The Kings Birthday, otherwise known as "Father's Day"

6 Dec 2002

I was late getting out of work, too late to meet up with the others all going to Lucky Farm for Scottish Medic Tommy's send off (Bar Kung was closed for the holiday), and decided to just go to my fave place (Canadian Dave's) for a curry, then a quiet night. Not quite.

Last night was wild! As it was the King's bday, there were all these festivals, so the streets were packed (a rarity here). It was also the end of Ramadan, as there's a large Burmese Muslim community, that was a big deal. It was *also* the national day for the Shan State (one of the hill tribes along the border), and some Karen Holiday, so needless to say, there was a lot of festivity. Streets were packed - I didn't realise Mae Sot actually had so many people. It reminded me of why I *don't* like Bangkok: crowds!

I ran into a friend who's a journalist, working for an NGO in Chiang Mai, in town for a few days. He introduced me to the guy with whom he was talking, and then he asked us to join him and some friends at a place outside town. What a fascinating evening it turned into.

I was introduced to one guy and when he heard I lived in TX, said he was from Austin. I asked him what he did, he said "I'm just in business, I'm not doing anything too political right now." I thought 'rather odd to say..why the political comment?' Well, I quickly figured that out. This guy was a Burmese refugee who was hosted by people in Austin, which is how he ended up there. All 5 were Burmese who can no longer go back to Burma because they're black-listed by the govt. Two were BBC journalists (*one was a former mircobiologist; the other the BBC correspondent for Burma), one was a poet and writer well-known in Burma who currently works for the "Burmese Government in exile", another a composer of well known revolutinary music, also working with the gov't in exile (there's a name, but there were so many acronyms last night I was totally confused).

As it happens, Ne Win, the former (hated) dictator of Burma died yesterday, so there was a bit of a celebratory atmosphere. I spent the whole evening hearing discussions of the political situation in Burma, the history, their roles, why they fled, the current situation, etc etc. It was weird tho, because the discussion was so matter of fact. Not passionate rhetoric, just *real* talk of real life. But these were not just everyday people, rather, people heavily involved in the whole movement. There was a lot of explaining to me who was who in the govt, what groups were associated with what other groups, and so on. I used to think I was pretty worldly-wise, and I knew of the Burmese situation, but I felt so incredibly ignorant and naïve. That said, they didn't treat me as such. They were keen to share and quite happy to answer my ignorant questions. I was fascinated - and humbled- by all of it. It reminded me of why a place like Mae Sot is so interesting to work - being on the border it has such a long history, and is a crossroads for so many, but being small, it's so easy to meet people like this. I'm not quite sure I can convey the experience well, I just walked away saying "Wow!" (I then went and had a couple of more drinks with my friend the Canadian journalist, discussing life as an expat vs. a refugee – both 'displaced peoples,' one by choice, the other by circumstance; life in exile, and about how awed we were by the entire situation.)

* the microbiologist turned journalist was interesting - he was helped to leave (read:escape) Burma by colleagues of mine and taken to Oxford to do a medical degree. He did his first degree in microbiology, worked for Wellcome in Oxford, then did a master's in Social Policy at the London School of Economics. That intrigued me, having done something similar in reverse (minus the getting black listed and having to escape from my homeland). He is now a dedicated journalist, tho he doesn't write much anymore. He trains locals - ie Burmese, Karen, etc in journalistic techniques (interviews and such).

Interesting stuff! So that was how I spent my evening. As much as I like the gang at Kung's, they're all ex-pats, and there's a certain, different atmosphere. Even those involved in human rights work etc, don't quite come at it from this angle. I felt really privileged to spend the evening with these people.

House Hunting and the Spirits

10 December 2002

(that's my bike, my flat is on the 3rd floor)

After nearly 6 weeks back in Thailand, I am finally out of guesthouse living
and in my own place. There will be a phone in a week or so.

My SMRU address is always good too. I like mail :)

Short Story:
My move-in is determined by the spirits and stars. Whether that brings
good or bad luck to MY move is not yet clear. Given the adventures of
late, I am thinking my "Good Karma" from Loy Krathong did not quite work.

------

Long Story:
My priorities of "furnished, 2 bedroom/bath house, nice location" quickly changed to "Western toilet - bucket flush ok, exterior walls consisting of something other than planks of wood, some sort of plumbing suitable to sink installation." The way I saw it, if I was living in a thatched hut in a Karen village without electricity, cool. But I'm living in a city of sorts, figured I should live a little better. Was beginning to prefer the Karen village idea (still do actually, unfortunately, being on the border and in KNU territory, the Thai government isn't too keen to have westerners living there).

See one gorgeous place, not available after all. See one new, very cheaply built place, Nope. See my friend Stuart's place. Bloody Stuart, he got it a few days before I arrived, if only I'd come sooner! Seethe with jealousy.... See few more old, falling apart places, no furnishings (I quickly decide to remove that from priority list). Remind myself I *am* in a developing country after all. And I'm not forced to live in a refugee camp. Just reasonably clean and not falling down would be nice. Adjusting to the idea of forgoing a western toilet.

Mon 25 Nov: find an apt, FABULOUS! Not large, but big enough, furnished
with all new furnishings, clean, nice garden, and best of all western
toilet and shower with water heater, and kitchen!!! (a rarity). Not only that, it's above a classy sushi restaurant (rather out of place in the wild-west saloon sort of town of Mae Sot).
(the patio)

Landlord (Opart): "It'll be available end of this month."
Me: "Soooo. Sun Dec 1? "
Opart: "Yes, but I'll double check and call you."

WOOHOOO. I have a place to live. Go to Kung's bar to celebrate with a gin and tonic, everyone asks: "So when's the housewarming party?"

Thurs 28 Nov: Opart calls "Che-lise, so sorry, it will be available on
Tues, Dec 3"

Me: "Ok" silently thinking "Bummer!" Ok, that's just a few extra days.

Go to Kung's Bar, Kung says "Che-rise! How 'bout your house?!"
Me: "Ahhh. Bad subject." He knowingly brings me a g&t. drown my sorrows.

Fri, 29 Nov: Opart calls again: "Oh, Chelise, So so sorry. She is now not moving out til Tues, Dec 10."

Me: "ACK!"
(Fortunately Opart has lived in the US for 20 years, Mexico for 1, so
he's not so taken by my, um, obvious feelings on the matter. In Thailand, one never shows any expression. At least not to the people involved. Sometimes being an expressive Latina/American in Thailand is not so easy. I have become very quiet and shy-like here...)

Opart: "I will talk to her again, I am so so sorry."
Me : "I will keep looking for something else, I really need to find
something. But okkk."
Quickly realise I have no choice. Besides, Catholic guilt kicks in, remind myself I have it so well. I am not living in a crowded refugee camp right? Stop whining. Slowly begin to accept it...it's not a big deal. Keep counting down the days til I *don't* have to eat out for every meal. (Get more jealous of Stuart's cool house)

Go to Kung's: "Cherise! How 'bout your house?!
Me: "Don't ask. Dec 10. "

Kung consoles me with a G&T and says "it just gives me more time to find a turkey for your Thanksgiving!" Good old Kung.

Tues, Dec 3: Opart leaves message, "Your apartment is ready!"

What??? WOOHOOO! I call, he says "Yes, she's moving out today. I'll clean
and it'll be ready for you tomorrow."
me: "Ok, I'll call tomorrow at 1:30 when I'm ready to come over."
Yeah!

Go to Kung's bar: "Celebration!" Woohoo! Mattieu convinces me a second
G&T is required for such a celebration.

Wed, 4 Dec: lug all my stuff downstairs, get it ready for the truck. Call Opart to tell him I'm on my way.

"Oh, Chelise, I'm soooo sorry. she hasn't moved yet. Maybe tonight?"
ooooooooooooohhhhhhh. Ok. Deep breath. Move all my stuff into the nearby lab so I don't have to lug it back upstairs. It's just one night right?

Later Wed afternoon, another call:
Opart: "Chelise, about the apartment, I am so sorry, can we meet tonight to talk about it"
Me thinking "Oh Sh*t plan has fallen thru completely."

Meet at his sushi restaurant at 9pm. He offers me wine, sushi. I'm still thinking "ok, clear sign, all's lost." He hands me a piece of paper saying "this is from my tenant." Uh-oh.

Seems, the Landlady of the house this woman is moving into keeps
determining that said dates are all wrong - "bad luck. The stars say this day for move in, bad karma." Next date set, "Spirits say it not good for house to move in this day." Ah-ha! Makes perfect sense now.

Well, as perfect as one can get with the stars and spirits. (I was told *later* that this is a common occurrence. No one wants to tell you the real reason you can't move on a certain date, they just keep delaying it)

Go to Kung's: "Cherise! How 'bout your apartment? Did you move in? When's the party?"
Ahhhh. About the place.................

The woman moving out is probably as frustrated as I about the move. So, it's "good luck" for her to move on Dec 7. I settle for Dec 10. Just to be sure. I have no idea if this day is good luck for my house or not. Probably not. I will have to get a spirit house and make offerings to my ancestors to protect it. But then, my ancestors will be saying "Cherise, what the heck are you doing there anyway????"

Opart, my LL, own's "Opart's Place" a Thai restaurant in Chicago. Any one there,
should stop by and say you know me :). He was quite anxious to have me move in. I guess he thinks I'll be a good tenant? Or maybe it's just 'cause I'm cute? More likely, just keen to have it settled before he goes back to the US in a few weeks.

Off to Kung's to celebrate! I actually have a key to the place now! (My apartment, not Kung’s Bar)

Next up: "Trekking in Umphang: Adventures in Mud."

Lessons learned:
1. Throw out the fancy hiking boots, and stick with rubbery studs (cheap football cleats)
2. Buy the waterproof case for your new digital camera, you may be
swimming when you weren't planning on it.
3. Downhill skiing on mud is not recommended, in the dark. With a pack.
4. Mother Nature doesn't always comply with "Dry Season begins in
November"
5. Elephant trails are not the greatest for trekking paths.
6. Think of yourself as a monkey.

Housing Update: Nightly Adventures in Mae Sot.

15 Dec 2002

The only bad side-effect of moving? The 6+ dogs whose territory I crossed on my nightly walks home from Kung's started to ignore me. Now, I live in the opposite direction: different territory and new dogs. There are 10, territory appears to be directly in front of my building. Have to cycle an extra half-mile past to get away from them (cycling encourages them, but I don't really want to stop with them nipping at my back tire). Eventually they get bored and turn back. Now I've taken to growling. Seems to work. I figure 5 days of it and they'll start ignoring me. In the meantime, if you hear of a farang woman that goes around at midnight growling like a dog, that would be me.

Still no phone. Repeating the move-in saga. I wonder if the Stars dictate phone installation?